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Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travels. Show all posts

Saturday, March 5, 2016

Kumartuli and the Art of Deity-making in Kolkata, India


In Northwestern Kolkata, close to the Hoogly River (part of Holy Mother Ganga river), is a neighborhood of deity-makers, Kumartuli, long honoring the traditions of West Bengal and India. I was there in the season of Durga Puja, seeing the preparations for the subsequent week's Laxmi puja. What an amazingly perfect time to feel the zeal and creativity of this most auspicious week for Bengalis in Kolkata. They are very proud of this tradition of Durga Puja which is celebrated bigger in this city than anywhere else in India.

I visited Kumartuli several times during the week of Durga puja in October 2015. One time at night, and one time at mid-day. Creation is happening at all hours, and generally the doors to the crafting workshops are open to those who want to see the process.

I fell in love with the partly-made deities. They seemed so vulnerable in their nakedness and half-made states. I saw the beauty of the creative process, which I loved photographing and sharing here.

While some deities are created alone with their vehicles, other structures are an assemblage of deities put together to represent the story and tradition of the puja. Laxmi's vehicle is the owl, and she is the Goddess of Fortune. She is celebrated on the third day of Diwali and traditionally devotees to her clean and decorate their homes with lights and finery. They prepare sweets to offer to her. They may also purchase new clothing (I saw lots of sales toward this at stores and markets). This encourages the blessings of wealth and prosperity for people honoring Laxmi in this way.

What I remember most about the season of Laxmi puja was the constant barrage of firecrackers and fireworks throughout the cities of Kolkata and Bodhgaya!

Photo Diary of Kumartuli:

A deity starts with a bamboo superstructure, holding wrapped twisted straw deity shapes.

  

Happy devotee posing with an early Laxmi. 


Then natural clay mixed with chopped straw is sculpted onto the straw form.

   

A layer of wet clay is added to carve and shape the final form with detailed features. See photo on left with the man behind, chopping the straw on a cutting board to be mixed in with clay? Also, see the mold in the foreground here. They use some molds to creat limbs and faces, I think. It was a rare sight to see a woman deity-maker!

Molding the final clay form, while another man chops straw on the cutting board... and dog scratches.


Very rare female artisan.

This Laxmi is ready for her hands, and her exterior clay layer is dry.

Then deities are very skillfully painted in layers. White underlayer, then beige skin, then painstaking detail of the face and neck. Each diety has her characteristic details. See the red in Durga's eyes.
Night time working, painting many Laxmii deities.
Laxmi's holy feet and her owl vehicle.

Frist layers of paint on Laxmi deities.


Handpainted Laxmi face. I saw many Durga deities with the 3 lines on the neck.


Traditional Laxmi with her owl.

My favorite: Durga's traditional yellow face. 

Next, deities are clothed, and hair is glued on. Lots of workshops have their specialty... 




And finally, customers come to the market to buy from their favorite deity makers, to take their deities home...  
Happy Customer taking Laxmi to the family home. 

Customer taking a Laxmi home while vendor secures deities in his cart. 

Customers cart off an extra large deity ensemble (Visnu and consort Laxmi) in their truck that was driving by in the narrow lane... for a Laxmi puja pandal in Kolkata.

Or artists take their deities to a market in another part of town!
Laxmi's on the cart to be taken to market.

Sweet Laxmis tenderly packed on a cart for the market. Hold on tight for the ride!
 I so admire the detailed craftsmanship that goes into each deity. Each is handmade, handpainted by skilled tradesmen who care about this critically important aspect of their spiritual culture. It must be an honor to be part of one of these deity-making families. Traditions and vocations like these are typically passed down within families. They live in this section of Kolkata, keeping busy most of the year with the succession of pujas for the rich Hindu traditions that make West Bengal such a rich place of faith, tradition, color and fesitivity.

#kolkata #durgapuja #laxmipuja #westbengal #india #deities #kumartuli #hinduism #devotion #hindu #durga #calcutta #travelindia #sacredindia

Saturday, January 30, 2016

Dragon Slaying at Mother Teresa's in Kolkata, India


This is about my experience with Mother Teresa’s mission at Prem Dan, where I volunteered for just one day in December, 2015.

After 6am mass at Mother House and a breakfast of Indian tea, white bread and banana, I walked for 20 minutes with a group of 10 or so volunteers (mostly from Europe and Latin America) through some gritty, poor neighborhoods. When we arrived, I walked past a van where they were loading a very skinny dead body wrapped in a white sheet, with a small flower arrangement laid on the abdomen of the covered body (wrapped like a package). I appreciated the clean whiteness, and the beautiful simple flowers on this body being carefully placed alone in the van. I said a prayer for the recently departed soul, still floating around, perhaps.

We went towards the women's dorm, as the men in our group went to the men's area. There was a covered area with a long concrete slab with 4 sinks and concrete slab in between. Two sinks were for washing and two were for rinsing with slab space for sliding laundry to the next stage. At the last stage, three resident ladies and a young volunteer was doing the wringing by hand of the sheets, towels, washrags and smocks. The older ladies were a bit tired, sitting, not able to wring too well… I was wringing strongly, gotta get more water out! I and a girl from Argentina worked the stairs to get buckets of wringed laundry up 3 flights to the roof where it would get hung to dry on the 100 clothes lines.

One young volunteer from China who was so beautiful to me, had bought jasmine flower garlands in a market on the way to the place, and gifted them to two ladies by putting them around their neck. One lady was very out of it and doing repetitive actions near the staircase where I was transferring laundry buckets. She kept opening a metal gate that was behind her as she sat in a wheelchair. She wanted to reach back and close it, or open it... or close it. Then she discovered this garland. As I brought buckets of laundry to the staircase for my Argentinian friend to haul to the roof, I saw the process of her inspection and dissection of this foreign and interesting object someone had placed upon her. She wasn't seeing beautiful flowers, but interesting shapes and textures, I think. She dropped the garland, I gave it back to her. A few times... There were lots of buckets going to the staircase...

After all laundry was done (40 or 50 metal buckets worth), we went up to hang… I loved this part, up on the roof, able to see out to the neighborhood. We looked at the other rooftops where there is quite a bit of life in India... Many people sleep, visit and hang laundry on rooftop terracess. Cats hang on rooftops to be safe from all the dogs. There could have been some great pics but no pics were allowed. Alis from Mexico said she would send me pics, but I have yet to email her to ask!

We then went to the ladies sitting at tables in their little cotton smocks with a random flower print. All but a few had shorn hair and no jewelry. They were sitting dutifully at the tables… maybe they had metal cups of water. Now it was time to be with these Bengali-speaking ladies. How to spend time with them?

There was a little toiletry bucket of nail polishes, combs, brushes and oils. We could paint their nails, comb/brush their hair, or massage them. Massage seemed the most therapeutic and intimate, so I decided to take the glycerine and offer massages. I massaged about 12 ladies… first arms and shoulders. Then decided to do full arms, hands and shoulders. One lady asked for leg massage after, so I did her legs and feet after arms, hands and shoulders.

One lady spoke to me in Bengali for 10 minutes before I started any massages, and she was telling me her dramatic story, of some injustice, I think… maybe how her family left her there… because Alis told me later that day that she saw a horrible thing when she arrived that morning. A man with a cane asked where is the exit, “I can’t find the door, where is the door?” and a pair of younger men came at him and pulled him away from the entrance while he protested, “No, I am not supposed to be here! Where is my family! I need to find my family, we just came here to go to mass! They will wonder where I am, I have to find my family!” They dragged him toward a building and obviously the family had abandoned him there without telling him. Will they ever visit him? Will they explain later, why he could not live with them anymore?

How many of these women I was with, were abandoned by their families at the stage of life where they are supposed to be relaxing after all the work of their lives, enjoying their grandchildren, and enjoying the labors of the children who would not cook and clean for them as they enjoy their elderhood. But now they are stuck in a Catholic home stripped of their Indian clothes, their long hair, their jewelry, their deities, and even of their pranams and “Namaskar.” I was told by a volunteer that the sisters do not like it when people pranam or say Namaste, or Namaskar. These women I massaged had interesting tattoos on their forearms, a relic of their past devotion and it was clear to me that many of them must be Hindus, and many probably are not Catholic converts in this Bengali city where women are extra proud of their extra shiny red and white sarees and Durga and Laxmi festivals.

I could not get a good sense of the mental capacities of these women that mostly didn’t speak. Some did speak to each other but without knowing the language, I could not tell how lucid and in reality they were. The hired staff were super efficient and logistical, not giving much loving empathy to residents in the tiny short time I was around them. After massages, the lunch was served onto plates and the ladies were given plates of rice with a rice/chicken/potato stew which looked pretty good.

One lady needed to be fed, as her hands were folded in and useless. She hardly had teeth, but was a vigorous eater. I would bring a spoon of food to her mouth and she would help me guide it in. She successfully communicated that she wanted more food on each spoon. She ravished the food. Not sure why... She was happy to be eating. She smiled at me after many of the bites. Maybe those were the bites that had the best amount of food and went into her mouth at the right angle. In a place like this, those little things make a person happy. I worked the side of the spoon to cut the chicken hearts into bitesize pieces... I think she liked getting little pieces of chicken heart in each bite like that. This was the highlight of my day. Helping a woman eat and catching the food not making it into her mouth with my other hand, and seeing her smile with a lot of the bites.

It was time to help some of the ladies to the dormitory now. Everyone moved with the routine and were tuned in to the timing of it all. I think they depended on teh timing of it all, like babies love the security of feeding, bathing and nap times. It was time to nap. I wheeled a few ladies to the dormitory. The beds are covered with clean sheets. The beds are about 2 and a half feet apart from each other. Set up in 4 rows with one aisle down the middle. There are beds in the breezeway area. It looks like an overflow, they couldn't fit more beds into the proper dorm hall. Soon there were traffic jams of wheelchairs as volunteers and staff were delivering their charges to their respective beds. One lady needed to use the bathroom. It's times like these that having a physically handicapped father who was unashamed of his limitations and asking for help comes in handy in my life. I didn't bat an eye going into the shared toilet area with water running constantly into a trash can for I have no idea what purpose so that the floor had a 1/4 inch of water on it... but when I wheeled my lady towards a toilet, she eased off her wheelchair, I struggled to help her to the seat, but she grunted that she would do her thing which was to move slightly away from the chair to pee right on the floor that had that constant flushing of 1/4 inch of water. OK, I see why the water is running over the edge of that container. Another woman was naked sitting on a toilet facing away from the door, hoping for something to happen. It looked like some level of struggle, but she was balanced and stable as far as I could tell. We were standing in the water she just peed in, but oh well, here we go back to the dormitory (attached by the door) tracking in the pee-water. But this place is clean. It looks and smells clean and the huge quantity of laundry we did that morning was a profession of the cleanliness. The ladies were all accumulating on their beds... sitting, lying. If they were sitting, I thought, "they must get so bored," but if they were lying I thought "it's nice they have a clean place to rest their body."

This is not the home for the dying, this is a nursing home for ladies that are not all there mentally, many probably rejected by their families... I wish I knew that their families visited them. I wish I felt that my visit had helped them some how. They seem unphased. Maybe I was just one of many new strangers that looks strange and speaks a strange tongue that comes to do something interesting overseas. I am not their daughter or husband. But I hope the human touch and gentle regard does support them somehow at some level they may not even be too aware of. The most important thing is for us to have an intention to help and give.

In India, Christians love St. George, the dragon slayer. A statue was installed here on an exterior wall. You can pick which dragon you are slaying in any particular time of your life - it seems we always have to be slaying one. Maybe anyone who needs to (me or some of the ladies) can slay the dragon of attachment to holding on to life as it likely was for many of these ladies in their rich Hindu Bengali culture living with their immediate families, all factors which are gone in this place. But who am I to say these ladies are sad for that, I am assuming... and projecting, perhaps, but it seems at the end of life people need their spiritual practice more than ever. I hope the internal practice can happen for these ladies, as their external world that I saw does not reflect the spiritual life that is practiced by most Hindu Indian people I have seen.



















#motherhouse #motherteresa #kolkata #premdan #volunteering #hinduculture #missions #catholicmissions #india

Saturday, January 16, 2016

Sick Dogs of Bodhgaya

I received amazing news yesterday and am feeling so happy and grateful! A sick dog in India that I spent 2 days trying to capture to take to hospital has been treated for cancer and released by Dogs of Gaya



I had stayed in Bodhgaya for weeks and saw him 4 times on the road sitting helpless, sad and weak with a terrible open wound around his testicle area that he continually licked. When I heard about an animal hospital (Maitri Foundation) a few km away, I went there to get help. After pleading, phone calls and the promise of donating, two men took me back to town in their dog-catching jeep to find the dog and bring him for treatment. That day we couldn't find him.

The next morning I found him and took him breakfast and called the men back to meet me with their jeep. But the dog ran and ran in fear.




One man chased and chased for an hour, and I ran around town looking for the man chasing the dog. One nice tuktuk driver helped me get around (he had taken me to the dog hospital the day before, waited with me that morning for the jeep and men, gave me a tea... he was eager to help with my dog rescue). I was in and out of the tuk tuk, and in and out of the hospital jeep. I tried to coax that fearful sick dog. We had to give up for the day.

I was leaving town the next morning. I felt worried about this dog. I named him Balaram! I figured that might help the Maitri Foundation want to help this pet even after I left town. Why was I so attached to getting help for this dog?

Yesterday I messaged Dogs of Gaya (an NGO that helps dogs on the streets in that area) and learned that they got the dog to the annual Kagyu Monlam Animal Medical Camp where they fixed an infected tumor he had. The dog is now healthy, playing, and happy to be pet and cuddled!

So many dogs in India are forced to live at the literal margins of society. They can't live in the road, or will be run over, and are eschewed from the sidewalks by people doing business there. They must literally live on that line where the road meets the edge. They live on this thin line of nothingness, hoping for a scrap of food, and avoiding the cars and scooters that drive within inches of their bodies. Many do get hit or run over and suffer with the injuries or die. 

I am so very glad and grateful to the amazing things Dogs Of Gaya is doing for a very needy population of loving emotional beings who are neglected. I saw some people shouting at them or hitting them with sticks, but mostly they are ignored. Luckily many people do get rid of old leftovers by leaving them on the ground for the dogs or cows. Interestingly, dogs usually stay in the same area to live. This dog stays in front of the Thai temple on the main road.

When I would walk and see stray dogs, I would bend down and talk to them in a friendly way. Most would look up and wag their tails a bit, looking hopeful. I would pet those dogs, and they would stand up and get all happy. Most want some love and attention. After all they are domesticated animals, not meant to be living out on their own alone. If they did not wag the tail I would leave those dogs alone. I saw so many mangy and undernourished dogs. The weaker ones will lose opportunities to eat food and are treated even worse by people, being seen as a source of sickness.

Dogs of Gaya really represents the important Compassion in Action that His Holiness the Dalai Lama talks about! 

Please donate -- www.dogsofgaya.org

‪#‎bodhgaya‬ ‪#‎mahayana‬ ‪#‎dogrescue‬ ‪#‎dogs‬ ‪#‎india‬‪ #‎animalrescue‬ ‪#‎animallove‬ ‪#‎compassion‬

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Homecoming

August 2014

I landed back home after 8 months of traveling. It started with quitting my job and then driving to St. Louis for 2013 Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays... then to Costa Rica for 10 days over New Year's with my beautiful niece, Andrea. Then I went to India at the end of January for 4 amazing months, I topped this off with a 2-week trip to Thailand. I made a plan far ahead of time to visit friends and family on US east (New York, Massachusetts, New Jersey and Virginia) coast for three weeks when I returned. I figured, since I have time and will be coming into the east coast from Asia, I could reconnect to them on my way home.

But I was in a mental state that was unlike I had experienced before... I had not been working, not driving, not cooking, not shopping... just being and exploring. I was alone a lot traveling in Asia, and now being with people constantly since arriving in the US was a challenge, as I was visiting old friends, cousins, aunt, sister and niephews. I was going cuckoo not having time and space to integrate my experiences from the India journey while visiting people who were going at full speed in their own lives, happy to have a visitor to bring into their own world... but I wasn't ready to go into others' worlds. I wanted to talk about my experiences, and I wanted to write. I wanted to go into my cave, or share with a person who was really curious about what happened for me on my journey.

I was still living out of the backpack and now suddenly in high-drive visiting-mode with people I had not seen in some years, I was so happy to see these people who care for me so much, but I was having a hard time taking care of myself, and under the happiness to connect with my loved ones, I felt a measure of grief, confusion, withdrawal, and loneliness.

A beautiful moment happened when I went home to St. Louis after all that traveling... Mother was so ecstatic to see me. I felt like a 4-year old again, feeling her love, relief, and adoration when she picked me up at the airport. She was beside herself with excitement and hugs, like a child herself, letting her emotions totally show. She took me home and offered me food, candies, drinks and comfy places to sit. She was dying to hear all about my trip and see all the pictures. She was so happy to have me home, safe and sound. Then my sister Margaret came home and she squealed and hugged me so hard. She was equally excited to see me, and to learn of my experiences, she couldn't wait! I felt so loved and adored, it was such a sweet homecoming!

I was so surprised that I really wanted and needed this. I needed to feel welcomed home and, I guess, to be celebrated? Margaret mentioned that maybe I felt celebrated when I told her how it felt...

I watched Kanika's family welcome her home when she went to her parents' house in Panchkula near Chandigargh. They had everything ready for the important guests! Kanika, her husband Patrick, son Watson, and me, friend Kathleen. Bedrooms were perfectly prepared, and amazing foods cooked to welcome hungry travelers. All attentions and affections were poured on Kanika and her family. There was no mistake she was the most important person in this moment, having been gone, and now welcomed back to the nest. She was celebrated and loved! They all wanted to know about her life and how she was doing. I so admired and enjoyed this adoring, welcoming energy. And she poured gifts upon her parents, brother, sister-in-law and niece. What a great time they were having in their reunion, like Christmas.

It is such a beautiful thing to celebrate a person. I think this is one reason I do love birthdays. I like to sing to people on their birthdays, on the phone or in person. I want to be more conscious of celebrating others. It is a beautiful thing, to celebrate each other!

I want to celebrate people when they make big life decisions, when they return home after a long or intense absence, when they go through a big life change. We used to have more ceremony in our lives, to mark these important moments of change, return, and departure. I believe we can re-integrate those traditions, or make new traditions to be conscious of each other's growth and process with love and attention!


Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Stepping Off

I did a wonderful thing. I quit my secure, well-paying job at a university with great insurance and a great retirement plan. I got to bike to work in a great town through beautiful neighborhoods. I got to be at the nexus of policy, research and education at state and national levels. I made friendly connections with interesting dynamic change agents and decisionmakers at state and local agencies and educational institutions across the state. I got to travel to Africa and Central America to help on watershed projects. I got to work with top scientists in aquatic ecology, hydrology, geochemistry, and climate science. I learned tons about those sciences, and about water sustainability, research, hydrologic databases, and academia.  I also learned that I am not meant for a desk job dealing more with computer files than people being asked to help groups of faculty that are not sure what they need to be helped because they are in a brittle system set up to function only if each person devotes a tiny amount of time and thought to each of their 100 projects/students/classes.


Going to work started to feel like a chore, and even punishment, because my passion was really in my social, arts and nature activities. I had projects in sewing, puppeting, organizing, and work just seemed to get in the way. I had no time for this "work!"



My spirit started struggling and rearing up. My higher self  decided I was done with this pretense of comfort, because in actuality, I was growing to be very uncomfortable on many levels. I found I was pretending that how we were doing things was fine with me. And I felt unseen, and I squashed my own expression more and more... first with a sense of frustration, and then peacefully, with a sense of acceptance with a deep knowledge that this was so temporary and so not my world,,, I used to think that this academia thing should be my world. Then it was clear that I was meant for other endeavors.   I could see this was a big machine working in ol dwell-worn ways with old worn out ideas at the institutional level. How incredibly boring and uninspiring. I could go on. But let's get back to me.



I found a part of myself rebelling against the comfort and security... something suddenly surprised me... a suggestion that I should quit  without finding another job... I needed a break from 'working.' It was my spirit that insisted on this. So I saw myself deciding to quit as soon as I had saved $12,000.  I would somehow go outside of my routine and out of my current society for a while to shake up my world in such a way that things would look different, like shaking a snow globe or a etch a sketch like blowing a Mandala away. e a hunch that things aren't really as they seem right now. There is a lot of illusion. Until I get out of my routine, my house, my comfort, I will have limited viewing.



So it is time for a retreat, a time to step back, zoom out, refresh, put on new glasses (or take off the glasses), climb out of the cave (I love the image of Plato's cave where people are enchanted by their own shadows and are comfortable in that safe warm cave and don't want to realize that their shadows are just shadows, and that the bigger truer world of life and expansion lay outside the cave itself.




So I plan to go to India on January 24 with my friend Kanika and her family. We are invited to her cousin's wedding and I am so honored that they will host me in their home! I go north from there to the base of the Himalayas for meditation retreat down the road from the Dalai Lama. I will travel south after that to do yoga and retreat in several other places, to meet a few friends, to experience elephants. Then I fly to Thailand. There I will explore more of the elephant world and conservation. More about that soon... 



People want to know the PLAN... I think they get confused and worried when the plan is very loose, and undefined... maybe I am too a little bit. My goal is to establish connections with people there, and learn about opportunities and then have those in my list of options once I am there... but I won't have everything planned out. I know I will be ok. I am trusting the world to catch me as I step off the edge into the  arms of love from people and animals. I will invite that love by sending love out And I have plenty of intellingence and travel savy to help me along.


Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Making Millet Beer, Malwa

I was going through my Uganda trip notes, and found the recipe I wrote down for Malwa, the millet beer people make behind their house. Luckily, this man had the beer prep process in multiple stages at once (so as not to ever run out) and showed us the process and instrumentation involved in making and drinking with his buddies!

The word for millet is bulo.

1. they dry it in the sun
2. remove the husks by beating it with a stick and winnowing.
3. when clean, grind it using a grinding stone
4. ferment for 1 week
4a. dig a hole
4b. put in banana leaves
4c. put in soil
4d. add the millet
4e. add more soil
4f. cover with banana leaves
5. roast it
6. dry it in the sun
7. put in water and yeast
8. next day, add more yeast and water
9. third day, it is ready!
10. make a long straw (see photos)
11. drink with your buddies standing around the pot together, who bring their own straws!



Apparently they make their own yeast too:

Take clean millet after drying and put in water. Put in a cloth sack to drain. It will start to germinate. Turn it and turn it for 4 days. 5th day dry in the sun. Grind. Now this is yeasty millet flour to use in the malwa!

Just read a news story online, a guy got caught stealing his neighbor's malwa pot! As punishment, they made him drink the whole pot, but he vomitted before he was halfway through! http://allafrica.com/stories/201107180396.html































Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Colorado Butte Poem

Cottonwoods winding and slumbering with streams
(ribbons on grassland wrap),
festooning round butte outcrop gifts,

where hunters received their buffalo vantage,
and settlers received a view of their claim.

The mother, she rose up with clay
and with shale....

She gave and is giving still.

by Kathleen McKee 



Credit: Annie Griffiths, National Geographic


Credit: AirPhoto.com


Credit: Royce Bair


#poem #poetry #butte #cottonwoods #west

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Lake Moon Kayak

A visit to my friend living on Swan Lake to kayak under the full moon was a wonderful Saturday evening. Resulting poems I wrote:

Cumulus Aperitif
Rumps down on grass, all stiff and dry,
wine glasses poised, to watch up high.
An appetizer for our paddle:
cloud-show playing, did us addle!
Mouths dropped open, not for sips
but at flashes, strikes and rips.
Light-cracks went down, and some across,
inner rumblings, gods were cross?
Pink in the folds, dust blue up high,
some purple there, oh me oh my!

Moon Eye
Fish, mouth open, laughing cloud,
porpoise tongue, don't speak aloud.
Moon-eye shine! we want to gaze,
upon your shape-change in the haze.

Ripple Haiku
Kayaks on water
Pushing ripples under moon
Bats flit around us

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Ozark Reservoir Collapse

The weekend of Father’s day 2010, my sisters and I visited the East Fork of the Black River near Lesterville, in southeastern Missouri. It’s in the heart of the St. Francois Mountains - a small region of 1.4+ billion year old igneous rocks that are home to some of the most unique natural features in MO (Elephant Rock State Park and Johnson’s Shut-ins). These small mountains contain some of the highest points in the state, and “form the core of the Ozarks.” They are the largest of only three igneous rock exposures in Missouri (bright fuchsia on the map!) Source: http://www.rollanet.org/~conorw/cwome/article6&7.htm

Wow, the pretty purple rhyolite that makes the hard-to-erode rocks of Johnson’s Shut-ins are 1.4 billion years old! The St. Francois Mountains are the exposed geologic core of the Ozarks and used to be taller than the Rockies. Here is a map of what is considered the Ozarks. Most of the light blue is in Missouri, the Ozarks extend into northern Arkansas and some in Oklahoma (source: http://www.answers.com/topic/ozark).
Ameren UE built a reservoir on top of Proffit Mountain as a pumped-storage hydroelectricity facility. The method pumps water from a lower elevation reservoir created in the Black River by a dam, to the upper reservoir at a higher elevation during low-electricity-cost off-peak times. During periods of high electrical demand, the stored water is released through turbines to generate electricity that can be sold at the higher prices. The pumping process makes the plant a net consumer of energy overall but is economical because of energy pricing. In the satellite image you can see where the wall broke on the reservoir and went down the west side of the mountain into the valley that was the popular Johnson's Shut-ins state park.

According to Wikipedia, the electic power operation started in 1963. They thought the upper reservoir was built on pure bedrock. A software glitch on Dec 14 2005 caused the pumps to keep pumping water even though the upper reservoir was full so water flowed over the top lip and eroded the soil/rock underlying the wall which collapsed at 5:14am creating a 700 foot wide breach and releasing 1.3 billion gallons of water down the mountainside. A 20-foot-high wall of water, soil, rocks and trees scoured a path down to the bedrock a mile long until it all flooded into the Johson’s Shut-ins. The rocky shut-ins dammed the water which eventually drained through, but the narrowness and strength of the igneous rocks kept all that debris from going further downstream. The superintendent of the park, his wife and three children were swept away when the wall of water obliterated their home. They survived, suffering from injuries and exposure. The children were transported to a hospital in St. Louis and later released. One child was treated for severe burns from heat packs applied by rescue workers as treatment for hypothermia (!).

The dam of the lower reservoir, which by design is able to hold much of the capacity of the upper reservoir, withstood the onslaught of the flood, but the state park was all but destroyed by rocks, trees and water. Larry’s cabin where we stayed is downstream & south of satellite image, below the lower reservoir...silt/clay is still eroding into the water that goes by the cabin making the stream less crystal clear than it used to be.

Ameren UE took responsibility for the breach and spent $40 million on restoration of the park. More than 15,000 truckloads of debris were removed from the park in the year following the disaster, according to Ameren, including 1,748 truckloads of trees, nearly 4,000 loads of rock and almost 8,500 loads of silt. Wow that is a lot of gasoline.

(Source: http://www.columbiamissourian.com/stories/2007/08/18/rebuilding-reservoir/)

The Federal Energy Regulatory Commission fined Ameren UE $15M for the breach – the 2nd largest fine in the FERC history (after a fine on Florida Power and Light for a power outage in 2008). Federal regulators approved Ameren’s plan to rebuild the reservoir, and construction began in late 2007. The rebuilt structure is made entirely of roller-compacted concrete, unlike the rock-fill original. In addition to fill-detection instrumentation it incorporates a spillway to handle any overflow and a video system to monitor the water level. The $450 million cost of rebuilding the reservoir was covered mostly by insurance. The utility is prohibited from billing customers to recoup any of the cost. I saw a wall of concrete on top of the mountain when we were driving to the shut-ins to swim, and it felt like a sci-fi movie suddenly.

The scour-path made by the rushing water and boulders has been a boon for geologists who are now able to study an ancient mountain range. A large bed of rhyolite has been uncovered as well as rocks from several other geologic eras… Some rocks 1.4 million yrs old, others 530 million years old.

"We have 900 million years of the Earth’s history right here," said Cheryl Seeger, geologist for the Missouri Department of Natural Resources. DNR owns the bottom portion of the scour path and plans to make it available for the public and create educational programs with it.

Seeger pointed to a series of tiny ridges on a section of harder rock. "These were created by waves from a huge saltwater sea that lapped the shore," she said. "This was a beach about 530 million years ago." The entire St. Francois Mountain range, once higher than the Rocky Mountains, eventually was covered by sea. That was long before the glaciers melted, fish swam in the sea or dinosaurs roamed the Earth, she explained. Almost 1.5 billion years ago, "caldera" volcanoes spewed forth hot gases and materials from under the Earth, creating mountains. Eruptions left holes underground, which eventually caused the mountains to collapse. This pattern continued for centuries. Unlike Hawaiian volcanoes that spew liquid lava, calderas erupt explosively. "Think Mount St. Helens, only huge," Seeger said. "If you think of St. Helens’ " eruption "as the size of an espresso cup, Yellowstone was a 50-gallon bag and ours was a 30-gallon bag." (Source: Monday, October 20, 2008 in the Columbia Tribune - http://www.missouristateparks.net/johnson)

Friday, April 9, 2010

In Uganda...

After 3 weeks there, I observed that in Uganda...

  • they don't eat lunch

  • they are very patient and don't need to discuss what is about to happen...

  • they love African tea (hot milk, ginger, teabag)

  • they say 'ehhhh' or 'heyyy' to acknowledge listening or sympathy and 'mmmm' to mean yes or listening

  • women wear long skirts

  • they have a soft handshake, and gently point to or grasp their right elbow with their left hand
  • they wear fabrics with bright interesting attractive patterns!
  • women don't squat and never sit on the ground cross-legged
  • they ride boda boda bikes to get a cheap lift
  • they eat much bananas (matooke)
  • they grow casava, beans, bananas, sweet potatoes
  • Stoney and Novida are popular softdrinks
  • they don't put screens on windows or doors but give out free mosquito nets
  • rural folks get water from borehole wells with hand pumps and yellow jerry cans
  • they use bicycles to transport matooke, water, firewood and charcoal
  • their bikes are all similar heavy metal bikes
  • charcoal is made from acacia and sold in towns, while country folk use firewood
  • bugandans kneel to elders
  • babies have beads around their waists and seldom any pants or diapers
  • there are many babies
  • they don't use donkeys, mules or horses for transport or farming and few machines, just human muscle for work
  • they live out much of their lives in front of their house
  • there are certain fruit reserved for children (jack fruit, tamarind, mango?)
  • people speak english
  • they sweep the dirt with little small hand-made/held brooms
  • children love to see mzungu, say the word and giggle and wave
  • cows in towns often look healthier than cows in the countryside
  • there are lots of cows
  • people are uncynical
  • people usually have Christian names: Frank, Grace, Evelyn, Andrew, Gilbert, Isaac, Hilda, Moses, Francis, Lawrence, Elizabeth, Daniel
  • women put wraps around their heads to keep dust from the road out of their hair
  • women wear lesu wraps around their waists to keep their dresses clean
  • clay content of soils is 39 to 59% so they turn their land into bricks and homes